Big wave surfer, Russell Bierke, opens up about being in the zone on the water and feeling that adrenaline rush in the Andrew Kaineder film, Flow State.
Russell Bierke is one of the best big wave surfers in the world. Since graduating high school and carving out a career on the ocean he has gone onto qualify for the WSL Big Wave Tour, won the Redbull Cape Fear event, received several Big Wave and Heavy Water awards and won the movie of the year for Flow State.
Directed and produced by Andrew Kaineder for O’Neill, Flow State is a gripping showcase of Russ’s intent on riding whatever mass of ocean comes his way. If you enjoy surfing, nature and the art of flow, you can watch the 15-minute audio visual journey on YouTube.
In the quiet moments between towering waves and epic rides, Bierke opens up about what makes him tick.
“Do you reckon you see things a bit slower than others?” asks fellow surfer and interviewer Brett Burcher, “I just wonder what goes through your head for that 10 seconds, from when it comes to when you’re in, and how you make it look so effortless.”
Bierke responds, “When you’re looking at a wave and you lock into it, for me it’s kind of like moving in slow motion. If I’m feeling good and in the zone, it’s like every step and movement is sub-conscious.”
“What is your headspace? What’s going on in there? Where you, like, tortured as a young fellow?”, follows Burcher.
“[laughs] I guess I kind of just enjoy the rush. It’s just that excitement you get in the moment and yeh, it’s probably a bit addictive, that adrenaline rush. I love going out and surfing small fun waves as well but it’s a different feeling and rush that you don’t really get anywhere else.”, says Bierke.
Surfing is considered by many as a deeply spiritual sport. Surfer’s are born to the ocean and live at one with it, their entire lives. For them, the ocean is the source and should be equally respected, enjoyed and protected.
Surfing is also a high performance sport, one with intense physical and mental demands that can trigger a state of flow. Many surfer’s, including Bierke, have talked about getting in that zone, time slowing down and moving with relative ease.
I highly recommend watching this film but even more than that, exploring how you can get more flow in your life. What are you good at? What do you love to do, just for the sake of doing it? What do you get lost in for hours?
Do more of that and see how rewarding life becomes.
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